Surfs Up.... (or not...)... it all depends on weather hundreds of miles away.....

aleshanee

aleshanee

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in late 2015 el nino created the perfect storm which sent one of the biggest most
consistent swells towards the northern shores of all hawaiian islands......

this video shot from the cliffs above one the most famous surf breaks in the world
shows those swells coming in and the waves crashing ashore..... you can see the hoard
of surfers lined up waiting for their chance to conquer the pipeline.... (they look like ants)...

and in the distance.. a couple of miles out.... you can also see humpback whales splashing around....
the first one is seen at the 1:51 minute mark.... there are a few others..... but out here in the islands
seeing humpback whales breaching off shore is like finding easter eggs..... so i;ll let you look for them... :cool:

 
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...pipeline masters 2015.......
from the same el nino swell seen in the previous video..... this
was the last year the pipe-masters was worth watching in my
opinion, hopefully this upcoming year will be better....

 
aleshanee said:
...pipeline masters 2015.......
from the same el nino swell seen in the previous video..... this
was the last year the pipe-masters was worth watching in my
opinion, hopefully this upcoming year will be better....

Click to expand...
That was pretty cool, and fun to watch.
 
ALAYMAN said:
That was pretty cool, and fun to watch.
Click to expand...
thanks.... there is a realy cool video of when a major clean up set came in at waimea ... wiped out the entire field
and sent all the life guard jet skis racing to the beach for cover.... ..but it can;t be imbedded for some reason.....
i was actually there and saw it happen in person.... but i didn;t have a camera running.....
 
this is waimea during the same storm surge... but a month later..... among the biggest
waves i ever saw in person..... .


and this was the clean up set i was talking about..... it won;t imbed so it
will have to be watched on youtube..... really shows the oceans power
..
 
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aleshanee said:
this is waimea during the same storm surge... but a month later..... among the biggest
waves i ever saw in person..... .


and this was the clean up set i was talking about..... it won;t imbed so it
will have to be watched on youtube..... really shows the oceans power
..
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So, a dumb mainlander question, but how do all those "ants" not inevitably crash into each other (and their boards) and get seriously injured when they are in the wash&tumble cycle of those humongous crashing tsunamis?
 
ALAYMAN said:
So, a dumb mainlander question, but how do all those "ants" not inevitably crash into each other (and their boards) and get seriously injured when they are in the wash&tumble cycle of those humongous crashing tsunamis?
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no.... not a dumb question at all.... . and in fact it;s a question many seasoned surfers wish newcomers to the sport would consider before they jump on a board and paddle out there... ....collisions between surfers... collisions between surfers and loose boards... sometimes collisions between surfers and their own boards pose a bigger danger than the wave action itself..... and the more crowded it gets out there... combined with the bigger the waves get... the greater the danger is..... ..people die out there... sometimes even the people who know what they are doing.... .......

but there is an ettiquette out there in all breaks and conditions.... and a set of unwritten rules that anyone out there for very long learns and begins to follow.... (or else they get chased back to the beach - and they better not still be there when the people who chased them come in)..... everybody out there keeps their eye on everyone else... and maintains a safe space...most of the people on any given break already know each other.... and if they don;t know someone then they keep extra special watch on that one..... and the only person.. (or persons)... who are supposed to attempt to take off on a wave are the ones closest to the inside... (the point from where the wave begins to break....).. everyone else is expected to either slide out over the top or duck dive under it and paddle back out and away... ..

when anyone first paddles out and joins the pack they are expected to set up on the outside..(which will be in the far left if the waves are break left etc.).... and wait their turn..... only moving toward the inside as surfers already there take off on waves and others move in to where they were..... ..but sometimes people .. mostly novices...will find themselves in a bad position where a wave is starting to break right behind them and they can;t resist.... they will try to slide down into a wave someone else is already on.... and that ends in disaster.... ..

on really big days ..like the ones in the videos.... lifeguards on the north shore will stop people before they go out there and prohibit anyone whose skills they are uncertain of from going out.. (they would never let me go out there on a day like that)..... and then there comes a point when even pro surfers already out there, will start to evaluated the number of people in the water vrs the quality of the waves and decide to paddle in and go home.....

but places like waikiki are another story.... the same rules of ettiquette are supposed to apply there too but with so many tourists in the water on any given day it can get dangerous even on small wave days.... .that;s why those of us who surf there a lot carefully pick the days and conditions we go out in.... but sometimes do what;s called surfing the dawn patrol... and it doesn;t mean going out at dawn... it means going out in complete darkness and surfing through the dawn... by the time the sun comes up we are already back on the beach and headed home....

(sorry... there is a lot more i could write on this but i;ll stop there... it;s long enough already...)
 
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aleshanee said:
.
no.... not a dumb question at all.... . and in fact it;s a question many seasoned surfers wish newcomers to the sport would consider before they jump on a board and paddle out there... ....collisions between surfers... collisions between surfers and loose boards... sometimes collisions between surfers and their own boards pose a bigger danger than the wave action itself..... and the more crowded it gets out there... combined with the bigger the waves get... the greater the danger is..... ..people die out there... sometimes even the people who know what they are doing.... .......

but there is an ettiquette out there in all breaks and conditions.... and a set of unwritten rules that anyone out there for very long learns and begins to follow.... (or else they get chased back to the beach - and they better not still be there when the people who chased them come in)..... everybody out there keeps their eye on everyone else... and maintains a safe space...most of the people on any given break already know each other.... and if they don;t know someone then they keep extra special watch on that one..... and the only person.. (or persons)... who are supposed to attempt to take off on a wave are the ones closest to the inside... (the point from where the wave begins to break....).. everyone else is expected to either slide out over the top or duck dive under it and paddle back out and away... ..

when anyone first paddles out and joins the pack they are expected to set up on the outside..(which will be in the far left if the waves are break left etc.).... and wait their turn..... only moving toward the inside as surfers already there take off on waves and others move in to where they were..... ..but sometimes people .. mostly novices...will find themselves in a bad position where a wave is starting to break right behind them and they can;t resist.... they will try to slide down into a wave someone else is already on.... and that ends in disaster.... ..

on really big days ..like the ones in the videos.... lifeguards on the north shore will stop people before they go out there and prohibit anyone whose skills they are uncertain of from going out.. (they would never me go out there on a day like that)..... and then there comes a point when even pro surfers already out there, will start to evaluated the number of people in the water vrs the quality of the waves and decide to paddle in and go home.....

but places like waikiki are another story.... the same rules of ettiquette are supposed to apply there too but with so many tourists in the water on any given day it can get dangerous even on small wave days.... .that;s why those of us who surf there a lot carefully pick the days and conditions we go out in.... but sometimes do what;s called surfing the dawn patrol... and it doesn;t mean going out at dawn... it means going out in complete darkness and surfing through the dawn... by the time the sun comes up we are already back on the beach and headed home....

(sorry... there is a lot more i could write on this but i;ll stop there... it;s long enough already...)
Click to expand...
Don't apologize, that was seriously... enormously interesting and informative, so write on....!
 
... thank you.... ok..... ..... so another thing that can get newcomers to the sport in trouble is when they see local guys who have known each other their whole lives, surfing on the same wave side by side... .. and think if they see a wave break and someone else is on it they can join in with them....... it;s know as dropping in .. and it;s a very bad idea... .. .some of meanest beach brawls i ever saw were a result of that..... just being in the wrong place in front of a wave as it was breaking got many novice surfers... and even a few aspiring sports action photographers run over by surfers unable to avoid them..... surf board skegs with the full weight of someone on the board... driven by thousand of pounds force of water will cut someones back to the ribs.... leave plowed rows all the way up their back... or scalp them leaving exposed bone on their skull.... skegs are deadly things.... and are banned in places designated for body boarding only....

the first time i ever rode a surf board was in tandem with someone else who was teaching me to surf.... i didn;t know that as a big wave comes in over a shallow reef it sucks water back out in front of it.... and at some breaks the reef exposes itself.. poking up above the water a few dozen yards in front of the wave.... i was on the front of the board and literally freaked out when saw that for the first time.... of course the water directly in front of the wave rises back up and covers the reef.... but in my mind i knew it was only inches under the board..... ...and then was told later by my surf partner that.... "well... yeah... if we fall off there we are gonna hit the reef.... come out lookin like we tangled with cheese grater.."..... .... of course there is much worse than that.... . like failing to make it out and over the top of a wave before it breaks.... getting caught in the curl as it goes over.... it;s called going over the falls.... and results in being drilled hard into the reef with all the energy that;s driving the wave........ ....some of the more serious injuries.. and even deaths... in surfing occur that way...... ...a lot of the rescues in heavy water take place because of it.....
 
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and....... in case anyone is interested..... below is a live feed camera from the
famous banzai pipeline on oahu...... (actual name ehukai beach).....



and also waimea....

 
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..
the waves in this video are of the size and power that i am used to... ..
....but the water i surf in is much more clear.... not murky at all...
... i guess not every place can be paradise... :cool:
caution... video contains images of swimsuit clad female surfers some xtreme fundamentaliss may find disturbing..
..
 
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Cool video from within the pipe! And U2 ain't too shabby either...


😁

U2 Joshua Tree is an all-time great...


 
ALAYMAN said:
Cool video from within the pipe! And U2 ain't too shabby either...


😁

U2 Joshua Tree is an all-time great...


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yep.... the era of joshua tree song in Gods country... was bono at his best.... ..and that surf video of inside the pipe images is surf videography at its best too..... ..it;s not easy to video inside a curling wave from a surfboard like that and do it so cleanly.. or keep the camera focus on one spot..... .. it;s not easy to surf inside the tube of a curling wave period..... but the 2 guys in that video are experts at it... ..... if you compare the sections of the girls surfing to what those 2 guys are doing you can see... ... the better a surfer is the less exagerated their extra movments will be.... the more they thrash around... the harder they are having to work at it to stay balanaced.... everybody in the video is good.... but a really great surfer will make it look effortless... .like they are standing waiting for a bus or something..... .
 
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do you want to be a dept of ocean safety lifegaurd recruit.. in hawaii on the island of oahu?... ...one round
of testing for qualified applicants is underway..... and another open period for putting in applications is
coming soon....... ...check the article below to see what you will have to do to pass the test..... :cool:

www.hawaiinewsnow.com

Lifeguard hopefuls put fitness to test as Ocean Safety holds another round of tryouts

Things got started Friday morning with the first heat beginning at 7:30 a.m.
www.hawaiinewsnow.com www.hawaiinewsnow.com

5548320092_5fb0259ccb_o.jpg

minimum qualifications for a C&C Ocean Safety recruit..... you must be able to complete a 1,000-yard
run in beach sand... then immediately begin a 1,000-yard ocean swim, and complete it all in under 25
minutes..... then a run-swim-run drill of 100 yards, each under 3 minutes... and complete a 400-yard
off shore rescue board paddle in under 4 minutes..... ..and that will qualify you fto begin training.... :cool:
 
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30 to 35 ft surf supposed to be developing on the north and west shores this morning.. but nothing expected on the south side... not even a decent wrap around.... meaning.. that the angle of the swells coming in are not what generates a wrapping effect so that wave energy would come around and bring surfable waves to the south shore.... ..... ....and not sure what the wind is going to do either.... ..ideal surf conditions on any shore is when a light to moderate wind blows into the face of a breaking wave holding the crest of the wave back.. blowing sea spray backwards... and creating a glassy surface on the face of the wave ...... not ideal conditions .or a blow out... are when waves look like the picture below.... caused by wind coming from the back side of the wave... blowing the crest and top of the wave forward ... throwing sea spray forward... and causing the wave to collapse early without forming clean face.... . ... ..i have a feeling that is what it will look like when the sun comes up on the north shore this morning... ....but with the ocean you never know until it actually happens... ...just gotta keep a watch on it.......
.
A7X7DKR4LRATPLSBPXSMU73XCY.jpg
 
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one of the scary things about surfing pipeline is that the water in front
of the wave is so shallow... sometimes the reefs pops off above the
surface in front of you... ..i never surfed pipeline.... it;s way above
my skillset.... but i have seen that happen in other places....
...... and it;s scary beyond description.....
..

 
and.... just in case anyone is interested.... .and in case you get weary of the snow and
cold weather where ever you are...... here is a live feed video where you can see what;s
happening in hawaii as it happens.. .... it shows waikiki beach with diamond head in
the background.... .... they leave this on 24/7... .. so you can see the sunrise too.... ...
... which anywhere anywhere from 3 to 6 hours after your own sunrise depending on
where in the u.s. mainland you live... but sometimes i won;t embed.. so you will have to
click on the "Watch on YouTube" tab below to see it...... .but it;s worth it..... :cool:

video - to be replaced as soon as i can find another live stream of the same beach...
 
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