Surfs Up.... (or not...)... it all depends on weather hundreds of miles away.....

CRAZY amazing video!
 
Baptist Renegade said:
You think this guy will show up?
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which one?.... the actor (patrick swayze)... who broke 4 ribs trying to do his own surf stunts on 4 foot waves in the movie?... (and who died of cancer several years ago?.).....

or his character in the movie ..(bohdi)... that dies at the end of the movie on a 50 foot wave portrayed to be at bells beach australia?.....

or... the real big wave surfer... (darrick doerner).... who did the stunt in the final scene of the movie.. ..(which was filmed at waimea)... .who dived head first from his board off a 50 foot wave... rolled down the face of it for the cameras... then came back up out of the water to see if the scene needed another take?

i know which one i would pick to be in the eddie aikau... but the last time he got selected for it he turned it down and went tow-in surfing instead.... said he wanted to make room for the younger guys who had never had that chance to be in the eddie before.... after that the aikau family felt snubbed and left him off the list of future eddie contests.....
 
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ALAYMAN said:
CRAZY amazing video!
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thanks.... there are quite a few really good videos shot by drones and also from the camera broadcast towers popping up now..... i didn;t post any others coz most all of them have profanity in them... . but if you do a youtube search for eddie aikau 2023 you can see a whole list of them... they show much closer action than the official television broadcast i posted in the other thread ...but that official full 8 hour broadcast is classic, and i hope they never take it down.... we sat and watched the whole thing as it happened live, the other day... .... (with snacks of course).... and also after getting back from sunday school.. ;)


here is the full video of the live event that was broadcast sunday.....

 
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aleshanee said:
which one?.... the actor (patrick swayze)... who broke 4 ribs trying to do his own surf stunts on 4 foot waves in the movie?... (and who died of cancer several years ago?.).....

or his character in the movie ..(bohdi)... that dies at the end of the movie on a 50 foot wave portrayed to be at bells beach australia?.....

or... the real big wave surfer... (darrick doerner).... who did the stunt in the final scene of the movie.. ..(which was filmed at waimea)... .who dived head first from his board off a 50 foot wave... rolled down the face of it for the cameras... then came back up out of the water to see if the scene needed another take?

i know which one i would pick to be in the eddie aikau... but the last time he got selected for it he turned it down and went tow-in surfing instead.... said he wanted to make room for the younger guys who had never had that chance to be in the eddie before.... after that the aikau family felt snubbed and left him off the list of future eddie contests.....
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Point Break is one of my favorite movies of all time! The original one anyway. I think the movie "Blue Crush" was more in line with the event you are speaking of? It was also the first time I heard of surfers being towed out by jet skis in order to catch the big waves.

As for surfing myself, I don't think I'm even up to surfing the dinky waves on Galveston Beach if your could even call them such! :ROFLMAO:
 
ALAYMAN said:
It sounds to me like it may have been more dangerous to be a spectator than participant….

More than 60 rescued at surf event

😳
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it;s that way during every contest or big wave day at waimea... and it;s mostly because so many people simply refuse to stay behind the boundries set by the lifeguards... they have no comprehension of how powerful the waves there are.. ...and lifeguards have to stay after them constantly.... ..in fact that;s the whole purpose of the lifeguards on the shore at waimea.... it;s just to watch over the spectators..... the guys on the jet skis are the lifeguards for the surfers.....

when i went out there during the 2016 eddie aikau we sat up on the cliffs above the bay.... it was sometimes hilarious to see people near the beach wander too close and get washed off their feet into the shorebreak... it was usually extra lifeguards stationed among the front of the crowd that would run out to rescue them and get them back in.... then other times it got scary just watching....

when the big close out size waves start coming in by sets at waimea it;s guaranteed the water is going into the grassy part of the park.... and then when it all starts washing back out to sea it;s taking everything not tied down or secured with it..... ....yesterday a dog got washed into the water and had to be rescued.... ..i think it;s in one of the T&C surf designs videos of the days action.... the dog was ok... but the owner probably got scolded for having it there at the beach on a day like that.... .....
 
Baptist Renegade said:
Point Break is one of my favorite movies of all time! The original one anyway. I think the movie "Blue Crush" was more in line with the event you are speaking of? It was also the first time I heard of surfers being towed out by jet skis in order to catch the big waves.

As for surfing myself, I don't think I'm even up to surfing the dinky waves on Galveston Beach if your could even call them such! :ROFLMAO:
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we know the girl who was the primary inspiration for the movie blue crush.... she;s a honolulu paramedic now.... .... but the movie i was describing that doerner did the stunt for and swayze got hurt in is point break... it;s one of my favorite movies too.... but then pretty much anything with keanu reaves in it is on my favorite list ..

with the kind of tow in surfing darrick doerner made famous they not only get towed out to the biggest breaks but they also have to be towed into the wave to catch it - because the wave is moving so fast there is no way they could paddle fast enough or hard enough with their arms to get into it.. .... i only surf waves in the 3 to 4 foot category.. slow movers by most standards... .. but i sometimes have a hard time getting up speed just to catch those..... and after i have made it into a few of them i;m worn out already...
 
a big north west swell in coming in today and tomorrow.... they are getting together hoping
to hold another eddie aikau big wave tournament.. .. but so far the waves only at 9 feet at
best... . they will have to get at least 3 times larger before the eddie aikau can happen...

here;s the live feed of the waimea break today.....
.

i also repaired the live videos on the previous page of ehukai beach... (banzai pipeline)
and the one of waimea beach.... they are both pretty active today too.... and novice
to mildly experienced surfers and swimmers are being advised to stay out of the water
and to stay back from the shore break.... ...the warning signs are up at waimea.....
 
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not much in the way of surf today... only around 6 to 7 foot waves with 8 second intervals
...bearing north north east.. . . but a big swell of 30 feet plus is coming..... and it warmed
up quite a bit from this morning... earlier this morning water temperature was higher than
the air temp.... awesome for surfing the dawn patrol... 🏄‍♀️.. ..but at this moment the air
temperature and ocean temperature are exactly the same... ... if you put the video below
on full screen and high definition you can see the read out at the bottom of the screen...
. ..it;s supposed to stay this way through christmas... even if the big waves come in.... ..🌊

 
aleshanee said:
not much in the way of surf today... only around 6 to 7 foot waves with 8 second intervals
...bearing north north east.. . . but a big swell of 30 feet plus is coming..... and it warmed
up quite a bit from this morning... earlier this morning water temperature was higher than
the air temp.... awesome for surfing the dawn patrol... 🏄‍♀️.. ..but at this moment the air
temperature and ocean temperature are exactly the same... ... if you put the video below
on full screen and high definition you can see the read out at the bottom of the screen...
. ..it;s supposed to stay this way through christmas... even if the big waves come in.... ..🌊

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Would you say that current surf conditions are relatively tame for this time of year? Last winter, you were posting some crazy surf videos and weather was a lot colder over here. This December has been extraordinarily mild. Grass that I planted back in September is still growing. Yesterday, it was sunny and in the 50s. The day before, not as warm but I still had the bike out.
 
abcaines said:
Would you say that current surf conditions are relatively tame for this time of year? Last winter, you were posting some crazy surf videos and weather was a lot colder over here. This December has been extraordinarily mild. Grass that I planted back in September is still growing. Yesterday, it was sunny and in the 50s. The day before, not as warm but I still had the bike out.
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it;s been very tame for this time of year.... ...but that happens some years with the big swells finally coming in january... .... 2 weeks ago they were wondering if they would be able to hold the eddie aikau invitational... but that didn;t pan out .. everything went flat really fast.... . ..and from what it looks the big swells that were expected this weekend might also flatten out.. ..it all depends on whether prevailing winds can keep them in motion or even cause them to build up bigger...... ........ but when it comes to the north shore in the winter months nothing can be taken for granted... ... it can be pancake flat one minute and then out of no where big swells can roll in... ..and without even touching the offshore bouys that normally detect such action when it;s still miles away.......there is so much going on weatherwise in the north pacific during the winter that anything can happen...
 
aleshanee said:
it;s been very tame for this time of year.... ...but that happens some years with the big swells finally coming in january... .... 2 weeks ago they were wondering if they would be able to hold the eddie aikau invitational... but that didn;t pan out .. everything went flat really fast.... . ..and from what it looks the big swells that were expected this weekend might also flatten out.. ..it all depends on whether prevailing winds can keep them in motion or even cause them to build up bigger...... ........ but when it comes to the north shore in the winter months nothing can be taken for granted... ... it can be pancake flat one minute and then out of no where big swells can roll in... ..and without even touching the offshore bouys that normally detect such action when it;s still miles away.......there is so much going on weatherwise in the north pacific during the winter that anything can happen...
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Ok... All the talk about el niño and la niña... I can't keep it all straight. I'm curious if the same weather patterns that send big waves your way brings storms our way.

This December has been about as mild as I can recall in 20 years in this valley. Last few years has been more winter like. But like you say, a mild December is no promise of what January or February is going to be like.

Around here, January is just cold and yucky. February and March is when the mountains get most of their snow.

As nice as it was yesterday, we still got rain last night, which is good.
 
abcaines said:
Ok... All the talk about el niño and la niña... I can't keep it all straight. I'm curious if the same weather patterns that send big waves your way brings storms our way.

This December has been about as mild as I can recall in 20 years in this valley. Last few years has been more winter like. But like you say, a mild December is no promise of what January or February is going to be like.

Around here, January is just cold and yucky. February and March is when the mountains get most of their snow.

As nice as it was yesterday, we still got rain last night, which is good.
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the waves are a little bigger today.... but still not the 30 foot waves they said might develop..... ...
so far it;s 8 ft north west at 15 seconds... .. and no wrap.. . so we won;t be seeing anything from
it on the south shore... ...this is what we are dealing with today... ..nothing worth surfing on....
but if you look out on the breaks known as "walls" you can see plenty of body boarders in the
water trying... .. so many you could almost walk across the water on them..... ....


 
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